Foundation Repair in Shreveport
Settling slab in a Broadmoor ranch? Sagging floors in a Highland cottage? We stabilize both. Every repair is designed around the one thing that matters most here: the expansive red clay your house was built on.
What “Foundation Repair” Actually Means Here
Foundation repair is not one product — it’s a set of methods matched to your foundation type, the soil under it, and how the house is moving. Shreveport’s housing stock splits roughly into two families, and we work on both:
- Slab-on-grade homes — the post-war and mid-century ranches that define Broadmoor, Spring Lake, Cedar Grove, Keithville, and most of Bossier City. The concrete slab itself is the foundation. When clay pulls away from its edges or heaves underneath, repair means lifting and stabilizing the slab with piers, or injecting grout to fill voids.
- Pier-and-beam homes — the older pre-1960 stock in Highland, Stoner Hill, Cedar Grove, and vintage Bossier City. Wood beams sit on piers over a crawl space. Repair means releveling the structure, replacing failed supports, and often fixing the moisture problems that rot them.
The free inspection starts by figuring out which problem you actually have — because the signs overlap, the fixes don’t.
The Methods We Use
Pressed Steel Piers
The workhorse for Shreveport slab repair. Sections of galvanized steel pipe are hydraulically driven through the active clay until they reach load-bearing strata that doesn’t shrink and swell. The structure is then lifted — often back within tolerance — and the piers locked in place. Steel piers are the right tool for our soil because they get below the movement zone instead of trusting it. Installed with minimal excavation; most homes need interior and exterior piers along the settling perimeter.
Drilled Concrete Piers
For heavier loads, two-story homes, and some new-construction stabilization, we drill shafts and pour reinforced concrete piers. Slower and more invasive, but the correct engineering call in specific situations — we’ll tell you when.
Mudjacking / Slabjacking
A cement grout pumped under sunken flatwork — driveways, sidewalks, patio slabs — or under interior floor sections where void filling is the real problem. It’s cheaper than piers and right-sized for walkways, but it’s not a structural fix for a settling foundation, and we won’t sell it as one.
Pier-and-Beam Releveling
On crawl-space homes we jack the beams back to level, replace rotted sill plates and failed piers, and add supports where the original spacing was too wide. Often paired with crawl space moisture work so the wood stays sound. More about this on our dedicated pier-and-beam page.
Our Repair Process
- Free inspection and measurement. Floor elevations, crack mapping, drainage review. You get the findings in writing within 24 hours.
- Engineering and fixed quote. Pier count and placement are set by the measurements, not by a per-foot upsell. The number you sign is the number you pay.
- Installation. Most slab pier jobs take 1–3 days. We protect landscaping, tunnel rather than break slab where possible, and haul off all debris.
- Lift and verify. The lift is monitored; doors and cracks are checked afterward. Cosmetic crack and drywall repair can be coordinated through our crew.
- Warranty, in writing. Pier work carries a lifetime transferable warranty — documented for your file and the next buyer.
What Foundation Repair Costs in Shreveport
| Scope | Typical Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Minor crack repair / patching | $300–$900 | Cosmetic plus sealant; cause diagnosed first |
| Pier-and-beam releveling | $1,500–$5,000 | Depends on crawl space access and support count |
| Slab stabilization (interior + exterior piers) | $4,000–$15,000 | Perimeter and interior lift points by measurement |
| Mudjacking (flatwork) | $500–$2,000 | Driveways, walks, patio slabs |
| Drainage correction add-on | $1,200–$4,000 | French drains, regrading, downspout tie-ins |
Every number above is a range — your fixed quote comes after the free inspection. Anyone who quotes a full repair over the phone without measuring is guessing with your money.
Signs You Shouldn’t Wait
- Stair-step cracking in brick veneer, especially corners and window openings
- Doors or windows that suddenly rub, stick, or won’t latch — top corners of frames are a classic tell
- Floors that visibly slope, or furniture that rocks on “level” floors
- Gaps between walls and ceilings, or trim pulling away
- Water pooling along one side of the house after rain — the same side showing the cracks